The back story
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The back story
Old Sofia: Serdica to the Largo
Roman streets under the metro, a 4th-century rotunda, a mosque, a synagogue and a cathedral within a few hundred metres.

Neighbourhood guide · Serdica & the Largo
Sofia’s ancient heart: Roman Serdica, the Rotunda of St George, the mosque, the synagogue and the mineral baths, with where to eat, drink and stay.
The back story
Roman streets under the metro, a 4th-century rotunda, a mosque, a synagogue and a cathedral within a few hundred metres.
Walk the Roman streets
The excavated streets and buildings of Roman Serdica in the heart of the city, around the Serdika metro station.
The oldest building in Sofia
A 4th-century Roman brick rotunda in a courtyard behind the Presidency, the oldest building in Sofia, with medieval frescoes inside.
Monumental Sofia
The monumental 1950s ensemble at the heart of Sofia, built over the Roman city, with the Presidency and government buildings.
Ottoman Sofia
The working Ottoman mosque of 1566, beside the hot springs, attributed to the great architect Mimar Sinan.
Moorish Revival splendour
The great Sephardic synagogue of 1909, one of the largest in Europe, with a magnificent domed interior.
A bath palace of 1913
The striped Vienna Secession bath palace of 1913, now the Regional History Museum, with hot mineral water fountains outside.
пл. Бански 1Explore View on map
Thracian gold
Bulgaria’s great archaeological museum, in a 15th-century Ottoman mosque, with Thracian gold and Roman treasures.
Съборна 2Explore View on map
Folk costumes and crafts
Bulgarian folk costumes, crafts and traditions in the former Royal Palace.
A market hall of 1911
The historic covered market of 1911 on Maria Luiza Boulevard, with food stalls, cafés and shops.
бул. Княгиня Мария Луиза 25Explore View on map
The Women’s Market
Sofia’s biggest open-air market, full of fruit, vegetables, cheese, spices and bargains.
бул. Стефан СтамболовExplore View on map
Bulgarian classics, done well
A stylish restaurant for modern Bulgarian cooking and Bulgarian wines, a short walk from Vitosha Boulevard.
A vaulted cellar
A traditional tavern in vaulted cellars in the centre, with hearty Bulgarian food, local wine and folk music.
Simple and authentic
A traditional tavern in a brick cellar, serving Bulgarian dishes such as banitsa, sirene cheese and stews at fair prices.
Soup of the day
A small, cheerful soup bar with daily-changing homemade soups, perfect for a quick, warming lunch.
бул. Княз Александър Дондуков 17Explore View on map
Bulgaria’s coffee pioneer
The roastery that brought specialty coffee to Bulgaria, founded by Cup of Excellence judge Jordan Dabov, with coffee bars around the city.
A café among antiquities
A café and restaurant in a garden beside the National Archaeological Museum, among Roman stones and old trees.
Hundreds of teas
A calm tea salon with a long list of loose-leaf teas and herbal blends.
A bar by candlelight
A hidden, candle-lit bar in an old building in the centre, one of Sofia’s most atmospheric places for a drink.
Beer and grills
A big, lively beer pub near the Five Corners, with beer, grills and Bulgarian pub food.
Beer on Dondukov
A beer hall on Dondukov Boulevard.
бул. Княз Александър Дондуков 14Explore View on map
Around the Rotunda
A grand hotel in the Largo, wrapped around the courtyard that holds the 4th-century Rotunda of St George.
пл. Света Неделя 5Explore View on map
Built over a Roman amphitheatre
A hotel built over the remains of the Roman amphitheatre of Serdica, which you can see inside.
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By the Women’s Market
A hotel on Pirotska, the pedestrian street near the Women’s Market.
Пиротска 18Explore View on map
Art and design
A boutique hotel on Dondukov Boulevard, steps from the centre.
бул. Княз Александър Дондуков 5Explore View on map
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